2023.05.07
We left our strange little BnB in Helmsdale on the Sunday following the Royal Constipation in London and headed almost due north, further into the East Coast Highlands.
We paused at the Hill O Many Stanes, a Neolithic site with 200 small standing stones. Set out in 22 rows. We wandered the site, perched on a remote hilltop, in the freezing light drizzle. Well worth the stop.
Spiritual. Connective.
Our next port of call was the recently aged ruin of Barbea, an historic clearance village built when the highlands were depopulated and commandeered by the new English overlords. The locals were allowed to live on the steep, infertile and inhospitable land atop the cliffs adjacent the howling North Sea. Damned kind of them.
We followed the Coast roads, rather than the main roads to find the out of the way places.
We had coffee at a little red bothy (farm house) then looked at a Thatched Roof Croft (farm building). We just love the ruins and the history.
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And speaking of ruins, we called in at Old Wick Castle, which was closed to the public as it’s considered dangerous now. It’s perched on a cliff between to steep ocean gorges on the North Sea. What a wildly beautiful place. Must have been bloody cold to live there and there are no trees to burn. At least, not any more We met a couple from Melbourne (bloody Collingwood people) and we found our puffins nesting in the cliffs with the gulls and pigeons. Still no Orcas but we have not given up (hi George)
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Another ‘let’s look’ moment took us to where there were Neolithic ruins similar to Skara Brae on Orkney as well as a series of monuments dated 1889. The place is called Nybster Broch. Not a clue of the meaning of the monuments but the OLD ruins are clearly a Neolithic village settlement. This place has to be one our most moving and exciting stops. And no archeological protection for the sites. Not my place to judge.
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And onward to John O Groats. The northern tip of mainland Scotland. Lyn (gotta love her) has dropped me at the pub for a pint. I may never be here again so this is a bucket list item for me. We will head for Orkneys and Shetlands and hopefully Faroe Islands on our next trip.
Across the top of the mainland to Thurso for the night. We stopped at May castle. £28 each, so we kept driving. This was the Queens Mothers favorite spot. We left. They don’t need our money.
Most excellent fish and chips on the river bank in the cold.
How much fun can The Poor Boy take? I just know you’re all happy for us.
Stay well

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